Interfacing & Stabilizers- The Differences and Uses
Interfacing is a textile used on the inside of fabric to that gives your garment body, shape, and structure. It it also reinforces high-stress areas like buttonholes and waistbands. There ae many different kinds of interfacing. Lets take a look!
STRUCTURE:
Woven interfacing is constructed just like woven fabric, made on a loom in which multiple yarns are interlaced as they cross at right angles to each other. Therefore, you'll need to pay attention to the grainline. It’s ideal for projects that require medium-weight or heavyweight fabric or delicate fabrics that require additional structure.
I use mainly for plush toys.
COLOR:
WEIGHT:
Interfacing comes in different weights for different purposes. A good rule of thumb is to use the same weight interfacing for the same weight fabric, light-weight interfacing used on light-weight fabrics and so-on-and-so-forth. You can also use different weights to change the weight and structure of your intended fabric. For example, if you’re making a collared silk shirt, using a medium-weight- heavy-weight interfacing for the collar will give the collar a heavier appearance and structure.
Fusible and Sew-in:
There are two ways to attach interfacing to your fabric.
Fusible: this interfacing has little glue dots on the wrong side and it adheres permanently. No need to sew!
Sew-in: this interfacing is basted to you fabric on the seam allowance. It is used when you don’t want to expose your fabric to heat and steam.
Fusible interfacing is the most commong and the fastest option. Sew-in interfacing is great when you need a heavy structure but you want your fabric’s look to remain the same. Also, when you’re using crinkly fabric or when using a loose weave and you don’t want the interfacing to be noticable.
Additional Stabilizers:
Water-soluable stabilizer is used when you need to stablize your fabric when sewing but do not want the interfacing to permanetly attach to your fabric.
tear away stabilizer is used when you need to stablize your fabric when sewing but do not want the interfacing to permanetly attach to your fabric and where water soluble stabilizer isn’t sutable.
This interfacing is used mostly for craft projects when you need to fuse two layers together without sewing.
I mainly use this for making oraments.
Hem adhesive is a great alternative to sewing when you need to fuse fabrics together. Mainly used for hemming knits.
I use it when altering knit necklines for customers. Also, great when you need a pair of pants hemmed but you don’t know how to sew.
Tips:
Follow manufacture’s instructions- All interfacings and stabilizers come with directions to correctly adhere.
Grainline and direction- woven interfacings have grainline for wovens and direction for knits interfacings. Follow the grainline/direction to insure the correct look of your fabric.
Fusible interfacing has a wrong side, the glue side.
Pressing cloth- when using fusible interfacing, I always put a pressing cloth (I use an old cotton pillow case) on the ironing board to avoid any glue accidently getting on it. Some manufacture instructions say to use a wet pressing cloth for proper adhering.
Double check fusible interfacing- I recommend double checking that your glue side is on the wrong side of the fabric. You don’t want to accidently put the interfacing on the right side of your fabric or on your iron or ironing board. If you get glue on your iron, don’t worry. You can scrub the glue off while the iron is warm. I use an iron cleaner to insure it’s really clean.
Wrinkled interfacing- wet interfacing and let air dry to remove any wrinkles.
Press your interfacing rather than using a back and forth motion. This will help insure your interfacing doesn’t move or stretch when ironing.