LEATHER TOOLS: Diamond Chisel vs Stitching Hole Punch

Leatherworking

Feb 22

Hand stitching leather is my preferred method of sewing leather. The stitching holes are predetermined so it’s a guaranteed stitching success. There are a few different type of tools to pierce or punch holes. You can purchase some patterns on Etsy and the patterns indicate which type and size of leather stitching tool to use. But if you design the piece yourself how do you pick which one is best?

(DieselpunkRo is my go to company for leather patterns!)

Lets compare the differences between the two to get a better understanding of how each one works and looks. Each one can give you a unique style for your project.

DIAMOND CHISEL

The diamond chisel is the most common used in leather crafting. This punch gives a diamond shape cut and gives the thread a slanted look.

PROS:

Inexpensive- prices ranges from about $10-50 depending on the make.
Multiple a Pack- usually they come in a pack of 4 or more which includes 1, 2, 4, 6 or more teeth. The single or double teeth are good for going around curves and short lines while the 4-8 teeth are ideal for long straight lines.
Punches in Bunches- you can punch multiple holes at one time.
Time saver- punching multiple holes at one time does the work in a fraction of the time as a single punch.
Consistent Straight Line- rest the chisel in the last hole you punched and the spacing is always perfect.
Sharpen- if the chisel no longer punches through smoothly then it can easily able to be sharpened.
Multiple Layers- it can go through several layers at one time.

CONS:

One Size Hole- the length between the holes can vary but the size of the hole always remains the same.
Fraying- The back of the leather can get a bit frayed because the chisel is pushing the leather out the other side.

STITCHING HOLE PUNCH

This punch leaves a hole cut out of the leather. The hole comes in a variety of sizes therefore you can use larger thread which leads to a stronger bond. Thicker thread also gives a more utilitarian look.

PROS:

Inexpensive- depending on the make they range from about $10-100 (also a con).
Size Varies- a bigger hole allows for a thicker thread which can give you a really strong hold. When making a bag that will hold a lot of weight this is key!

CONS:

Expensive- I have only found the 1 hole punch to be inexpensive. A tool with multiple holes can range over $100
Removes Leather- it punches a hole instead of piercing it therefore it can weaken the leathers edge, especially on thin leather.
Time Consuming- using a single hole punch multiples the amount of time it takes.
Single Layer- it cannot go through multiple layers of leather and I find I have to hit the mallet at least twice.

In Conclusion both options have pros and cons. Each one gives a unique style. I recommend the diamond chisel for thin leathers and delicate projects, like wallets and small purses. I would recommend the stitching hole punch for thick leather and large projects, especially large bags that will hold a lot of weight.